Sailing in Greece

Same notes from a unknown english sailingfriend  Ionian Anchorages on mainland Quiet & out of the way Greece – Mainland Ionian When people think of the Ionian, the picture conjured up tends to be of the islands: Corfu, Paxos, sandy coves, the resinous scent of pine trees and yachts anchored in every sparkling bay. But there is another side to the Ionian, a side not so many people know about, and one which we prefer. Generally, the mainland coast is flanked by barren mountains running down to low, scrubby hills. In places it is deeply indented, forming some of the most sheltered anchorages we have ever seen. The surroundings are austere rather than beautiful, although they have their own charm, especially in the spring, when flowers spring up out of the stony soil and the bright pink blossoms of the Judas trees add vivid patches of color. The peace and tranquility of this area, however, are beyond compare. These anchorages are not for you if you’re after fresh bread and meals in restaurants – the best you can hope for is a few eggs from the farmer or a fish if you are an expert with rod and line. And one doesn’t come here if one feels lonely being the only yacht in an anchorage, but if you want to get away from the crowds, watch the eagles and the egrets, these are the places to go. We know of four such anchorages, but there are a number of others slightly less sheltered along the coast and in the Gulf of Amvrakia. The sheltered ones, from the north to the south, are Pandelimon South Creek, Igouminitsa Creek, Pagania and Ormos Ftelias. Pandelimon South Creek (38°29′N, 21° 05.7′E) has total shelter, with room for two or three yachts and good holding once you are through the weed. There is no longer any need to get a permit from the Ionian Fisheries Company to anchor here, as used to be suggested in pilot books. Igouminitsa Creek (39° 31.3′N, 20° 11′E) is sometimes known as Ormas Valtou, and the easternmost creek has good shelter. There is plenty of room and excellent holding in 5m. There is also excellent shelter and plenty of room at Pagania (39° 39.5′N, 20°06′E). Ormos Ftelias (39° 41.4′N, 20° 00.4′E) is five miles south-east of the Albanian border and is the most interesting of the four anchorages. It’s not in the pilot, but the entrance is between a high, rugged island with a curious yellowy cliff face on the Albanian side and a low island joined to the shore by gravel spit on the Greek side. Keep well clear of the Albanian border by passing one third of the way from the Greek island, then turn right, keeping in the middle of the creek and anchor where convenient in depths down to 3m, or less round the second corner. The last three anchorages lie in an area officially off-limits without a permit, but in practice no-one appears to take the slightest notice of this and yachts anchor there all the time without permits.