Greece here we come

We started our trip by taking the train, X2000, from Lund to Stockholm. It was a ordinarily Tuesday evening but the train was almost full of people. In Stockholm we took the fast train to the airport, Arlanda. We waited there until four a clock in the morning and then the checking in for the plane to Athens started.

In Athens we looked after and found the bus who would take us to Preveza. After six hours in the bus and some food shopping we were at our boat. Inside she was very clean but outside she was very dirty.

After a simple dinner we fell asleep in two minutes.

In the morning the sun was shining and it was very warm.

Until now the weather has been warm, cold, rainy, thunderstorms. consequently April weather.

We have started to do our boat ready to launch, cleaning, polishing, painting underneath, set sails and so on. And in the meantime we also have to meet all our sailing friends who are here too. Nine other Swedish boats are here so we are having a good time together. Some evenings we go to a restaurant for dinner, we are having barbecues and one day we went to a gypsy market. There were almost everything to buy, vegetables, fruit, flowers, cloths, sunglasses, shoes, fish and bags. And everything was very cheap. What do you say about a nice pair of jeans for 95SEK.

I must tell you about the wonderful view we have from our cockpit. High mountains with snow on the tops, blue water with some small fishing boats and about 50 cows who are grazing on a open space. Sometimes the five dogs, who are living in our shipyard, are out on the green space and chasing the cows. The dogs are very nice, especially one, we are calling him Loppan. He likes us to very much, when we meet each other he is following us were ever we go.

But one morning we had a ugly visitor in our cockpit, a big cockroach! Tord took the ugly animal and throw it a long way from the boat. It is the last thing we want to have inside.

We are planning to launch in a few days and after that we shall spend Eastern with all our sailing friends in a marina in Preveza.

Our sailingplans for 2008

We are planning to sail from Preveza in Greece up to Albania and Montenegro. From there we go south and back to Greece again after a short visit in Italy. We will write reports from the trip and tell all of you about these countries and our experiences.

Free harbours and good anchoring in Italy and Malta

Free harbours in Italy and on Malta!!!!!  Free harbours along the Italians coast,
and good anchoring places from the boarder of France and too Rome.
	Bordighera	N43.46	E07.40	Marina free
	Oneglia	43.53	08.02	Marina free
	Andora	43.57	08.09	Marina free
	Isolotto Gallinara	44.01	08.13	Marina free
	Finale Ligure	44.10	08.22	Marina free
	Camogli	44.21	09.09	Marina free
	Portofino	44.18	09.12	only anchoring
	Santa Margmerita	44.19	09.13	Marina (free) and anchoring
	Rapallo	44.20	09.14	only anchoring
	Chiavari	44.18	09.19	only anchoring
	Sestri Levante	44.18	09.19	Marina (free) and anchoring
	Baia del Silensio	44.16	09.23	only anchoring
	Riva Trigoso	44.15	09.25	only anchoring
	Levanto	44.10	09.36	only anchoring
	Monte Rosso Levate	44.08	09.39	only anchoring
	Lerici	44.04	09.54	Marina free
	Punta Ala Marina	42.48	10.44	only anchoring
	Cala di Forno	42.37	11.05	only anchoring
	Santo Stefano	42.26	11.07	Marina (free) and anchoring
	Cala di Galera	42.24	11.46	only anchoring
	Civitavecchia	42.06	11.46	Marina free
	Santa Marinella	42.02	11.52	only anchoring
Elba
	Marciana Marina	42.48	10.11	Marina free
This is the only free marina on the island but there are plenty of good anchoring places,
and there are very good holding.
Sardinia
	Carloforte	39.08	08.19	Marina free
	Cagliari	39.11	09.06	Marina free
	Olbia	40.55	09.34	Marina free
Outside the coast of Olbia there are plenty of good anchoring places, and very good holding.
We know there are several more free marinas on this island (west coast), but we are not sure which they are.
Free harbours along the Italians coast,
and good anchoring places from Rome and too the Strait of Messina.
	Anzio			Marina (free) and anchoring
	Sperlonga	41.15	13.26	only anchoring
	Porto Santa Maria	41.12	13.35	Marina free
	Gaeta	41.13	13.34	only anchoring
	Formia	41.15	13.36	Marina free
	Baia	40.49	14.04	only anchoring
	Isola di Nisida	40.47	14.10	only anchoring
	Amalfi	40.37	14.36	Marina (free) and anchoring
	Agropoli	40.21	14.59	Marina free
	San Marco Dic	40.16	14.56	Marina free
	Acciaroli	40.10	15.01	Marina free
	Palinuro	40.02	15.16	Marina (free) and anchoring
	Camerota	39.59	15.22	only anchoring
	Marina di Scario	40.03	15.29	Marina (free) and anchoring
	Policastro	40.04	15.31	Marina free
	Sapri	40.03	15.37	Marina (free) and anchoring
	Cetraro	39.31	15.55	Marina  free) and anchoring
	Bagnara	38.18	15.48	Marina free
Isola di Ischia
Isola di Procida
Here are several good anchoring places round those islands, but in some places bad holding.
Sicily
	Cefalu	38.02	14.02	only anchoring
	Mondello	38.11	13.19	only anchoring
	Terrasini	38.10	13.05	Marina (free) and anchoring
	San Vito Lo Capo	38.10	12.45	only anchoring
	Trapani	38.00	12.30	Marina free
	Marsala	37.46	12.26	Marina free
	Marzala del Vallo	37.38	12.35	Marina (free) and anchoring
	Porto Palo	36.40	15.07	only anchoring
	Siracusa	37.03	15.17	Marina (free) and anhoring
	Augusta	37.13	15.13	Marina (free) and anchoring
	Brucoli	37.17	15.11	only anchoring
	Catania	37.29	15.05	Marina free
	Riposto	37.44	15.12	Marina (free) and anchoring
	Naxos	37.49	15.16	only anchoring
	Taormina	37.50	15.18	only anchoring
Isola Lampedusa
		35.29	12.36	Marina (free)and anchoring
Isola Pantelleria
		36.50	11.56	Marina free
				bad holding!
The free spots in the harbours above could have been taken away, but most likely
there should  one. They change it from one year to another.
And of course, the good anchoring is depending on the wind direction.
If you can´t find the free spot, call the Guarda Costiera on VHF 16.
Malta
	Valletta, Sliema Creek	35.54	14.30	Mooringbuoy free

      

Sailing in Greece

Same notes from a unknown english sailingfriend  Ionian Anchorages on mainland Quiet & out of the way Greece – Mainland Ionian When people think of the Ionian, the picture conjured up tends to be of the islands: Corfu, Paxos, sandy coves, the resinous scent of pine trees and yachts anchored in every sparkling bay. But there is another side to the Ionian, a side not so many people know about, and one which we prefer. Generally, the mainland coast is flanked by barren mountains running down to low, scrubby hills. In places it is deeply indented, forming some of the most sheltered anchorages we have ever seen. The surroundings are austere rather than beautiful, although they have their own charm, especially in the spring, when flowers spring up out of the stony soil and the bright pink blossoms of the Judas trees add vivid patches of color. The peace and tranquility of this area, however, are beyond compare. These anchorages are not for you if you’re after fresh bread and meals in restaurants – the best you can hope for is a few eggs from the farmer or a fish if you are an expert with rod and line. And one doesn’t come here if one feels lonely being the only yacht in an anchorage, but if you want to get away from the crowds, watch the eagles and the egrets, these are the places to go. We know of four such anchorages, but there are a number of others slightly less sheltered along the coast and in the Gulf of Amvrakia. The sheltered ones, from the north to the south, are Pandelimon South Creek, Igouminitsa Creek, Pagania and Ormos Ftelias. Pandelimon South Creek (38°29′N, 21° 05.7′E) has total shelter, with room for two or three yachts and good holding once you are through the weed. There is no longer any need to get a permit from the Ionian Fisheries Company to anchor here, as used to be suggested in pilot books. Igouminitsa Creek (39° 31.3′N, 20° 11′E) is sometimes known as Ormas Valtou, and the easternmost creek has good shelter. There is plenty of room and excellent holding in 5m. There is also excellent shelter and plenty of room at Pagania (39° 39.5′N, 20°06′E). Ormos Ftelias (39° 41.4′N, 20° 00.4′E) is five miles south-east of the Albanian border and is the most interesting of the four anchorages. It’s not in the pilot, but the entrance is between a high, rugged island with a curious yellowy cliff face on the Albanian side and a low island joined to the shore by gravel spit on the Greek side. Keep well clear of the Albanian border by passing one third of the way from the Greek island, then turn right, keeping in the middle of the creek and anchor where convenient in depths down to 3m, or less round the second corner. The last three anchorages lie in an area officially off-limits without a permit, but in practice no-one appears to take the slightest notice of this and yachts anchor there all the time without permits.

Sailing in Turkey, Canakkale – Marmaris

This is some notes from our friends from Australia,  CANAKKALE - MARMARIS  Notes on Anchorages North of Marmaris from Bruce and Cheryle Matthew …Yacht Sea Dove     July 2004    We left Marmaris on our shake down cruise on Sea Dove & sailed into a force 8+ to   SERCE, a good spot the restaurant boys give you a mooring line & take your line ashore, they don’t insist you eat there, we checked the prices, it was expensive for Turkey but a great view if you eat here! We gave the linesmen 5 million on the 2nd day, just as a sign of thanks. They appeared pleased with this. We anchored the SW end as it was full NE.   The next day we went to Bozuk Buku was a great spot you can anchor if you want. Water nice and clear, but too cold for us to swim when we were there early May.   Richard on the Yacht Sanyassa said that Ciftlik was good but Gerbekse Cove was no good.   We did not go to the DATCA Peninsula this trip, we later cleared in here. Buy a transit log from the travel agent on the water front (easy to find), then go to police in the street behind, then police will direct you upstairs to the customs guy, who gave us our visa paper stamp, then back to the police to ink stamp the paper stamp. Then they will direct you togas we were on a mission to make northing.    We stayed at PALAMAT, it was great. If you walk down the esplanade, there are only about 3 streets in this laid back lovely spot. Mind you we were there at the beginning of the tourist season. Walk bout 1klm, to the 2nd street off on the left, (you’ll get wet if you go right), there is a terrific fruit shop on the right hand side only about 3 house blocks down. Many small stores with groceries. The harbourmaster (lad) will take your lines for you. charged 10 million a day, very safe with force 7-8. There is water available and electricity that looked as though you take your life in your own hands if you use it.   KNIDOS no one was able set their anchors including us & Gulets! Kept watch all night but no wind fortunatley! ruins are about 8 million each. Our engine spat the dummy here. When we went ashore by dinghy we saw anchors lying on their sides on top of the sand.   MERSINCIK, anchor dug in 2nd time, rowed a line to shore, nice and quiet here, the only gulet left around 4pm.   Aspat Koyu. Anchored off the hotel in the bay, anchored in western section, no cruising yachts, no problems, sandy bottom in about 3-4 meters.   Turgutreis Marina at Karatoprak- didn’t go here, just passed, could see Tansas next to marina. Ros and Nigel said this was inexpensive (but remember they are blessed with English pounds).   Gumusluk – don’t miss this quaint town. Provisions ashore. Not a huge bay, anchored in the NW end of Bay, between the 2 anchors in Heikell. Anchored in mud, good holding.   Nikolao Bay. Sheltered here in force 7+ . Anchor dragged at first, but on 2nd try held very well. We didn’t relax here due to winds and nerves and lee shores. But anchor held well. Had 2 visits from Jandarma with machine gun on stern. Couldn’t speak English but were quite professional & didn’t know what the hell to do with us, so waved and smiled. . 2 nights here   We are told there is a free marina on Samos at Pithagorion. Pithagorian marina. Nothing there, only pontoons.   Cam Limani – not a military zone anymore. Anchored E of Cam Limani Adassi. In small bay, took 3 times to set anchor. This was a bolt hole as the wind picked up.   Gookovar Limani – Fiord like Bay, we anchored in north creek. Engine played up here, 2nd time. ‘There are more fish farms than in our 7 year old Heikkel, but it was lovely and quiet past the farms. Visited by an official looking man in a brown uniform. The boatsman had no idea how to protect the sides of Sea Dove, they had no fenders and a big old heavy boat and no boating skills. Bruce ended up telling them to go away. (and they did!)   Cesme – stayed in the town marina – It is a marina now not a port as in our Heikell. Loved the town, but baulked at the $28 million charge for stuff all facilities, toilet a long walk and no showers. Water and power available. THe town was lovely. In hindsight wish we’d stayed at Agriler Limani, there is an unfinished marina there for free. Big market is on sundays in Cesme, but we caught a bus saturday to the big market at ALACATI -  Try to visit this lovely town if you can, you can also go to Alacati from Agriler Limani . Alacati is a lovely very old cobble stoned town. the market had fabulous antiques and vegies and all the other stuff you buy in Turkish markets. Has to be the best market we’ve been to.   EGRIT LIMANI -  Bloody engine played up again. Think we fixed it this time… Anchored in 1st cove, as the 2nd cove has silted up somewhat. Here we went ashore for walks and the locals invited us to join them for cay and then back for dinner, with music, and arak. phewww good holding in sand   BADAM LIMANI – We anchored in about 4 meters at anchorage no 2 in Helkell, which was fine, water not clear enough for us to swim, but holding good. We didn’t visit the hot springs as we were on a mission to go North.   AYVALIK -  Keep to south of both cardinal marks before entering channel. There are anchorages everywhere here. Our favorite marina, a Setur marina with the most helpful young Ishmael. Migros next to marina for convenience. Fresh fruit market Thursdays. Everything cheaper than Marmaris, post office other end of town. Banks and ATM near Atturtuk statue. Market is behind here, follow the ladies with plastic bags of fruit. There is a large vegie market and a smaller one nearby with vegies from local ladies, all on Thursdays. although it is not well known there is a small chandlery in town. the man is most helpful, even drove Bruce around to get some stainless work done. To find him, head towards town, His shop is in an arcade on the right side of the street (left is water). past the local supermarket,I think the first group of shops, the arcade has a Kodak shop just after it. The bright guy in this photo shop is very helpful. A good wool and yarn store in street parallel to waterfront. Cheap, delicious ice creams.   CAMLIK BAY-  Like a bay here. Dolmus is 1 million wave down any heading towards Ayvalik. Very busy market day. The big white and red public bus leaves from the store up the hill every half hour and costs 50 cents. Buy a ticket from the man in the ticket box (must be bored silly). Or the drivers understand us useless foreigners if you have correct money. We stayed here on and off for 2 weeks waiting for gas. Eventually they wouldn’t fill our 2nd aussie bottle, so we bought a Greek one in Greece later.   POROSELENE _  NO good in a NE. We anchored in SW anchorage, couldn’t get anchor to set in N anchorage. Stayed a few days in SW anchorage, good swimming on sandy beach, but rocky beach was alive with sea urchins. NOne on sandy beach, good swimming.   ALTINOLUK -  a bit out of the way, but the most helpful fisherman and locals. Plenty of depth in harbour, 4 meters. Tied to southern break wall initially, no problems, but fishermen wanted us over with them, just to be friendly. So tied up to northern wall and were a novelty for all local Turks on holiday. Good prices in town, everything available. Quietened down at 2300- 2400hrs. Stayed 4 days, no charge either.   SIVRICE – Tried to anchor off town, but just dragged and dragged on sea weed, further down the bay towards the middle it was rocky, so we quit!! went to Baba Burun   BABA BURUN – mmmm, very windy when we arrived. Looked a bit dodgy to the right behind break wall. There was one yacht there, and not much more room, so we dropped anchor in middle of harbour then when wind died tied off to southern break wall. This is an interesting spot. NO problems, a few fishermen use the harbour and a local policemen who was fishing from the wall had a chat. good shelter, but didn’t go ashore.   BOZCAADA -  We anchored in the bay south of the harbour. Anchor held well, pretty shallow, sand and weed, plenty of sandy patches, anchored in about 4 meters.   ANZAC COVE -  Didn’t stay overnight as we were on a lee shore. Anchored in 4 meters, good holding, nice and sandy, clear water to swim in. Didn’t see any spent shell cases on the bottom. We believe that if they are found they should be left in their watery grave. Swam ashore in North Cove (just nth of Anzac Cove) to visit my Grandfather’s brother Daniel’s grave at No.2 outpost. Dan was an field ambulance officer and was at Gallipoli for 1 week before he died aged 23.   KABATEPE LIMANI – NO one came to offer assistance or advise, appeared very commercial, and not sure where to tie, looked like side-to. Ferry surge could be a problem, so had time to make next bay, so left.   ANIT LIMANI – Anchor wouldn’t set on long thick sea grass in shallow water, so went out deeper and anchored well in sand about 10 meters. So stay out deep!! Turk War Memorial overlooks bay.   CANAKKALE – Stayed in marina, great spot. $30 per night for SD, but only $100 for the week. If you want power and water it is 10 million per day each!! So we just got water on the last day. It is friendly with tourists along the esplanade, but not too many around the marina. All is quiet by midnight. Stayed a week. Charges in some establishments were often higher for the tourist. So beware. Ask prices first, this happened quite a few times. Great Place to do “Anzac, Gallipoli Tour”. Migros is 2 or 3 main streets back from and parallel to waterfront. The Post Office (PTT), is the street before Migros. There is a very good small supermarket one street back and parallel to the waterfront. It is on a corner, and the owner is friendly and likes to practise his English. Try the chocolate and cherry icecream on the esplanade.   From Cannakale we doddled around the Sea of marmara. Nice, but nothing to write home about. If anyone wants any info on here, just email us.   On checking out of Canakkale, Bruce was given the run about as it was Saturday and they were hoping to fleece him for some graft. A French yacht came in and although we took them to Customs, they were tricked into paying 125 million for an agent plus 35 Euro for a transit log. Customs told them everything was closed, but they can get anything they need if they pay for it… strange that he was open and at the same time Bruce was in the Harbour Master’s office… so he was there… and the police are always open…mmm..someone’s greedy. The agent came to the French yacht and took about 1 hour to return with everything stamped, think he would have at least gone home for a coffee and made the job look as though it took longer. Harbour Master and Customs are both close to the Marina, to clear out go to Police station first and ask for Sea Police. This nice man will give you a map if you ask for it. Harbour master is one street back from and parallel to the promenade. Customs is past the ferry gates on the Promenade, 200 meters down.    We don’t mind ANYONE passing these notes oN. Regards Cheryle and Bruce

S/y Aylas sailingtrip 2007

 We left Sweden in the end of April and flew down to Fuimicino, Rome. It was a great moment to see our lovely boat again after 5 months. We had a wonderful time together with other sailors in the marina. You could smell the smoke from the BBQ almost every evening. After 3 weeks we left the marina and sailed along the Italian coastline to the south. We visit a lot of wonderful places, Ponza, Capri, Amalfi and so on. We stayed almost every night on our anchor, but in Capri we went in to the marina. One night there, was the same prize as for a month in Rome!! But it was worth it.

After Capri we sailed to Amalfi and then down to the Liparian islands. It is a few islands north of Sicily with active volcanoes. It was a great feeling to drop the hook beside an active volcano and see bubbles coming up from the seabed just beside our boat and to smell the sulphur from the crater of the volcano. After two weeks we crossed over to Sicily and enjoyed all of lovely anchoring bays on the north side of the island. From Sicily we sailed down to a little island, Pantelleria. From here we continued down to the African continent and stayed there for a month.

On our way back to Sicily we visited Lampedusa and then Malta. We spent a wonderful time on Sicily before we sailed eastwards to Greece.

In the end of august we entered the Greece archipelago together with a whale (!).

The Greece islands in the Ionian Sea are like the paradise (I think!). A lot of wonderful island and anchoring places for all of us.

Now is s/y Ayla on hard stand  just outside Preveza town, Greece. Our plans are to start the next sailing- season for 2008 in April.

Sy/Ayla sailing trip 2006

 We left Lagos I Portugal in the end of April 2006 and sailed to our favourite island, Culatra, outside Faro. It was very nice to back on this wonderful place again. After a week we crossed over to the Spanish Andalusia and visit some English friends there. Our sailing trip continued down to Gibraltar. It was our second visit this year to this place. We came here in February on a short trip to pick up a watermaker witch is now installed and working perfect. From here we sailed to Morocco. This was in the middle of May and we had a very bad weather. About 15 degrees so we had to put on the heater. In Sweden at the same time they had 25 degrees. Is something wrong with the global weather????

We had a very interesting time in this country. We took a local bus and went up to the mountains. This we recommend you to do if visiting this part of the world-

Back to Spain and all the way to the Balearics. We stayed here for six weeks.Mallorca is a wonderful island for sailing. We hade a terrible thunderstorm there and wind gusts over 60 knots/sec. We dragged of course but everyone did!We sailed from the Balearics and then to Sardinia. We loved that island and stayed there until September. Then we went for a short trip to Rome (to make a reservation for the winter) and then back again and sailed around Elba and Corsika for a month and then back to Rome again. We left our floating home in Fuimicino, just outside Rome, on hard stand in December and went back to Sweden. We just bought a new apartment in Lund (Sweden). It was new for us but the house is 50 years old. So we spend 5 months renovating the whole apartment. New kitchen (IKEA of course ) new wooden floor (Swedish oak) and so on……. We saved the bathroom to next winter. We were worried that we shouldn´t have anything to do next winter (!?!)